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Mosel Fine Wines Ausgabe Nr. 69
„However, one development could well have a profound effect on the red wine in the Mosel: Pinot Noix. This Estate is the brainchild of Daniel Twardowski, a Burgundy collector and fine wine merchant from Trier. In 2006, he bought a parcel in the Dhroner Hofberg and, in Daniel’s words, got lucky: The parcel always received a touch of wind which dried the grapes. But his journey was not going to be an easy one, welcome to the fiddly world of Pinot Noir! He re-grafted the vines with fine seedlings he bought in Burgundy but, as he noted: “It was quickly clear that this was not a good choice. So, I asked some grower friends in Burgundy for help, and they sent me material from much lesser-known nurseries. Finally, in 2011,
I produced my first vintage. Together with my partner at the time (also a winemaker of red wines), we followed a quite assertive style based on long extractions, possibly acidification of the musts, and long ageing in barrique but I was not very happy with the results and wanted more elegance and refinement in my wines. The first vintage I then made along these lines was 2015. I like my wines to be as raw as possible: Good Pinot Noir has to be a bit “dirty” and therefore I don’t mind a touch of volatile acidity if need. In fact, I source many of my barrels second-hand from leading Burgundy growers and, even if I turn around my barrels usually over 2 years, I do keep a few pieces if they bring some particular “acidity signature” in the previous year.”What Daniel Twardowski’s story shows is the story of Pinot Noir: Making great Pinot Noir is as much an art as it is a science and finding the right balances and knowing where to throw orthodoxy overboard may be a lifelong quest. However, the results are stunning and Daniel’s latest vintages shine!“
Mosel Fine Wines Ausgabe Nr. 68
„Daniel Twardowski finds much to love with 2020 vintage, a vintage which proved a dream from start to finish: „We learned from our losses in the 2019 vintage that we had to defoliate the vines at an earlier stage, and we did it right next to the flowering. It helped us to have more stable grapeskins, so that the grapes were able to ripen better without having problems. In fact, we had no rot in our vineyards and started our harvest in ideal conditions on September 7-8, with no less than 20 to 25 people, and finished in less than 10 days. As always, our yields were quite low, around 20-25 hl/ha. Daniel produced three red wines in the 2020 vintage, with his top-of-the-range cuvée, the Hofberg Réserve, his classic Ardoise, as well as a third wine, considered an „entry-level“ wine from the youngest vines, and called „3rd“. The wines will be released in Spring 2024.
With the 2020 vintage, Daniel Twardowski confirms the very high standards of his tiny Pinot Noir production, with three outstanding wines. His 2020er „3rd“, despite the young vines, already shows a level of elegance that only a few reds in the region can reach. His 2020er Ardoise is a Pinot of freshness and complexity, and the 2020er Hofberg Réserve is a great Pinot for laying down. The quality of these 2020er Pinot Noir wines cannot
be underlined enough: This is an amazing result!“
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Pinot Noix Hofberg Reserve Vintage 2019 Spaetburgunder scores 97 Points
Smokey and earthy nose with lemon zest and paprika notes. Incredible interplay of dark minerality, concentrated fine tannins and delicate red-fruit character. Great brilliance at the very long finish. Almost supernatural vitality and fantastic aging potential. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.
Pinot Noix Ardoise Vintage 2019 Spaetburgunder scores 96 Points
Deep and rooty nose, but also wonderful, fresh black-cherry fruit that expands as it opens up in the glass. The abundant, fine tannins create an impressive structure that builds very well at the finish, providing a lot of power. What an extraordinary combination of white pepper, dried flowers and chocolate at the long, pure finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2023.
Pinot Noix Ardoise Vintage 3rd 2019 Spaetburgunder scores 93 Points
Fragrant red-cherry nose with delicate wild-strawberry and herbal notes. Very fine fruit and no less fine tannins that are beautifully matched. Long and filigree finish that has serious depth. Bottled unfiltered. Drink or hold.